811 Fins

Hooked the 19's back up again last night & tested the difference with the horns dampened. Pretty much the same at low volumes but when you crank it up it stays a lot cleaner. So the sound is smoother at higher volumes & less congested at those volumes. This was easy to do & very inexpensive.
Then tried putting the resistors in place of the L Pads. In my bright room I have found that joining the high frequency wires together is just toooo bright, so I put a 3.3ohm 10 watt resistor in circuit & this, to me, sounded much better.
I then put a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in the mid circuit & this made a significant difference.

I would describe the sound now as a lot smoother & more detailed but still with that nice attack & brightness, without the glare.

The resistor mod is definitely worth doing, although you may need to experiment with different values to allow for your room acoustics.

Cheers,
John

Hi John

They look good, job for mine I guess.

Did you get the latex paint at Bunnings?

Anthony

Hi, Magnarc,

Another option I am interested in trying is a product called Ormanoid(+ mixed with sand). Ormanoid appears to be a bitumenous, in mineral turps, mix. It is brush paintable and has no odour when set. It remains flexible but is dry to touch. Readily available and cheap to buy.

Cheers, Marshall.

Interesting. It may be a better colour match.

Also staying a bit flexible is good, incase a minor adjustment to mounting arrangements needs to be made.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by magnarc

Hi John

They look good, job for mine I guess.

Did you get the latex paint at Bunnings?

Anthony

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Hi Anthony,
I went to the Dulux trade centre at Currimundi & they told me that latex is the term Americans use for acrylic paint, so I just used an exterior grade acrylic & it was actually quite thick & solid straight out of the can. It was white & so for the final 2 coats I used a satin black acrylic & that matched almost perfectly with the original finish.

With the sand I noticed you had to be careful with the dampness of the sand. Too damp & it wouldn't spread out consistently & evenly. Too dry & I didn't think it was thick enough.
The first 2 coats I used washed river sand but found that the particles were too big. I then used fine white sand & applied it when it was just slightly damp. This seemed to give good even coverage & a slightly thicker build up than when it was completely dry. I used a small glass jar with a metal lid....I drilled holes in the lid & used this as a shaker to apply the sand.

I'd highly recommend this, it costs virtually nothing (you'll need about 1 1/2 litres of paint), & you can then really turn the wick up & the speakers just get louder.....no blaring or edginess.

All the best,
John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J Henry

..........they told me that latex is the term Americans use for acrylic paint........

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Yes/no/maybe...... I beleive there is "latex" paint that is not acrylic, as some paint is labeled "acrylic latex" and some isn't. You can also have acrylic enamels....... not sure what they are. Enamel is sometimes associated with oil based paints, but I don't think the acrylics are. I think much of the time, the terminology gets fuzzy after it goes through the marketing dept. I always thought that "latex" paint had latex rubber in it, but a Valspar sales rep told me that it was in reference to a process not an ingredient. Granted, a sales rep may not be the most reputable source for the technical aspects of any thing.

The one thing that is safe to say is that any "latex" paint will be water based, not oil based.

I have been out of paint sales for well over 10 years, so who knows what's changed.

Latex paint:

TLC Home "Latex Paint"

JHenry, thanks for that description, sounds just what I need.

Now to M19 clones and Magnificent clones...... Rolls Eyes at enormity of task....

mah, layers of sand, maybe that's what I'll do with those two 511s from you!

Anthony